Animal Fibres
Learn about the beautiful animal fibres of the world.
Wool
Wool is a natural fibre that protects sheep from both heat and cold, helping to maintain a stable body temperature. It is composed of keratin, the same protein found in human hair, and is one of nature’s most effective insulators due to the microscopic air pockets trapped within its natural crimp. Generally, the finer and more highly crimped the fibre, the better its insulating properties. Wool can absorb up to 30% of its own weight in moisture without feeling damp, helping to keep the skin dry and comfortable. It is also naturally water-repellent, dirt-resistant, elastic and exceptionally durable. The finest and most valuable type is Merino wool which is exceptionally fine, soft and highly crimped fibres make it ideal for premium clothing and textiles. In contrast, other sheep breeds produce coarser wool fibres that are better suited to carpets, blankets and other hard-wearing textile products.
Cashmere
Cashmere goats are specially bred in China, Mongolia, Iran and Afghanistan. The fleece of this goat is characterized by long and coarse hair. However, in winter the animal grows under its hair a short, soft and fine fleece; cashmere is this very fine under- coat that protects goats against the extreme temperatures of the regions in which they live. This undercoat is collected during spring by combing and it provides a precious raw material for the textile industry. Naturally, the raw fibres thus harvested still contain a considerable amount of coarse hair (called ‘jarre’) that is eliminated with a processing called ‘de-hairing’.
Traditionally, cashmere is not very standardised in terms of classification, codifications and comparative technical data. Generally fibres are divided according to their origin: cashmere from China is the most precious because it is the finest, with a fibre diameter of about 14.5-15.5 microns, followed by that from Mongolia; cashmere from Iran and Afghanistan is the most ordinary. The cashmere fibre could also be classified by the colour range: from white to light brown and grey.
Mohair
Mohair fibre is obtained from the fleece of Angora goat, originally from Anatolia. The fleece of this animal is made of wool fibres: the most precious hair is long, between 12 and 25 centimetres, slightly curly and bright like silk. Usually in a very bright silver white, sometimes it may be ash-grey, rosy, brown or black. The animal is carefully shorn twice a year and each exemplar supplies on the average 1.5 kg of wool; the hair spinning operation depends on the age of the animal because the quality of the hair changes while the animal gets older.
The fibre is classified on the base of its length and fineness, which usually varies between 24 and 60 micron depending on the age of the goat. The fleece of the young ones (Kid Mohair) is the more precious with an average fineness of less than 24 micron; the fibre of the kid mohair is used for high quality products like outerwear, while the fibre of older goats usually serves to produce carpets and blankets. Today, South Africa is the major producer of this fibre, with nearly 60% of the world production, followed by the United States and Turkey.
Camel
CAMELS typically live in arid and cold areas, distributed all over Central Asia, from the Persian Gulf to China and Japan. These animals have always been used by man for their wool, meat, milk and as means of transport. Their fleece is long, soft and fine with an undercoat which is collected in spring with the use of special combs. The colour of the fine, soft and slightly curly hair is light fawn. Its fineness varies between 10 and 30 micron, with an average of 17-23 micron and its length is between 4 and 12 cm. Usually, the male camel supplies 5 kg of fibre a year while the female 3.5 kg. The younger animals up to one year are ‘blond’ or nearly white and their hair is particularly soft and precious. The best quality of Camel fibre comes from Siberia, Mongolia and China, and is mainly used to pro- duce textiles for outerwear, like very warm coats which are at the same time very light.
Guanaco
The GUANACO is similar to the llama and is widespread in South America, Peru, Ecuador, Chile and Argentina. Like the llama it is double coated. It has a coarse guard hair and a soft undercoat, which is finer. The colour changes very little, usually ranging from a light brown to dark cinnamon with shading to white in the undersides and in the neck.
Vicuña
VICUÑA is the smallest of the South America camelids, which produce the most precious of the special fibres; vicuñas live in the Andean Cordillera at elevations of 4000 to 6000 meters. At freezing temperatures it produces a long and silky fleece and a very tight under- coat made of fine, short and very soft fibres that are the finest animal fibres in the world with a diameter of 12.5 micron. Vicuña is a protected animal by CITES: only small quantities of fibre are available, with a production of 5-6000 kg fibre per annum. The fibre comes from animals living in the wild state at 4000 metres over the sea level; the shearing is made only on animals with minimum 3 cm fibre length because the hair, which serves to protect the animal from the cold weather, grows very slowly.
Alpaca
The Alpaca produces a dense, silky fleece available in more than 20 natural shades, ranging from white and cream to brown, grey and black. Its fine, soft fibre is highly valued for its warmth and luxurious handle. Alpacas are shorn once a year, typically between November and March, and are divided into two breeds: Huacaya, which represents around 90% of the population, and the rarer Suri, known for its long, silky and lustrous fleece.
Llama
The LLAMA is the biggest of the South American Camelids. Since the Inca period Llamas have been used for transportation, due to their weight and build. The Llama fleece is combed using a process that eliminates the coarser fibre, providing a long, soft, shiny fibre, in many colours, and is very much prized by the textile industry.
Yak
Yak are native to the high plateaus of Central Asia such as Mongolia, the Himalayas, Tibet as well as some parts of Russia. Yaks thrive in cold and harsh climate conditions. Their coat consists of three types of layers. The outer layer is the guard hair which is long, coarse hair with a micron of over 50. The mid-layer consists of shorter hair with a micron range of 25-50 micron. The undercoat is called ‘yak down’ and has a micron range between 15-20. The majority of Yak have a medium to dark brown and black coloured coat, while grey and white coloured yak are much rarer. Each yak produces only 1 kg of down per year, which makes it a rare and very precious fibre.
EN
IT